#1. Astara
Wide beaches present Astara with a semblance of seaside resort potential but travellers mostly use the town as a transit point for Iran. The pedestrian border crossing (open 9am-1pm & 2.30-6pm) is an intimidating, unmarked series of grey metal gratings, five minutes’ walk along Az?rbaycan küç from Astara’s central square, where you’ll find a 24-hour ATM and the semi-smart Hotel Sindan.
Marshrutky to L?nk?ran (AZN1, 50 minutes) depart regularly till 3pm from beside Az?rbaycan küç 36, two minutes’ walk north of Hotel Sindan. Taxis cost AZN12. Ask them to stop en route at Yanar Bulag (Burning Spring) where ‘water burns’ at a roadside standpipe 9km north. Bring your own matches.
A sleeper train departing Astara at 7.30pm (platskart/kupe AZN6/8) arrives in Baku 6.25am. However, Astara’s station is inconveniently located so you might prefer to board in L?nk?ran.